The Drover, Omaha, Neb.
When most people think of the Midwest, chances are that they think of wide open spaces, farmland and a lot of crops and cattle. And why wouldn’t they? After all, cattle drives are one of the main things that built the Midwest in the early days of this country, and even today, eight of the 10 biggest cattle-producing states as determined by the USDA can be classified as being in the Midwest, with California and Montana being the lone exceptions. Combined, those eight states are responsible for 47.5 percent of the cattle produced in the United States this year. Clearly, this part of the country knows what it’s doing with beef.
Nowhere is that more true than in Nebraska. Sure, Texas is the top producer of cattle in this country at 10.9 million this year (and has a very well-earned reputation as a home to some pretty awesome brisket), which is close to double the output of No. 2 Nebraska, but the Lone Star State is also the second-most populated state in the nation at 26.45 million, behind only California. Nebraska, on the other hand, has a population of 1.87 million, with a full third of the Cornhusker State’s residents clustered into Nebraska’s only two real cities of Omaha and Lincoln. Nebraska’s 2014 cattle output clocked in at 6.15 million, and those of you who can do math have realized that yes, that means there are more than three times as many cows in Nebraska as there are people.
With that being the case, that means two other things are true. First, Nebraskans know their beef. After all, Omaha steaks are famous across the country, and people can and do pay good money to have genuine Omaha steaks mailed to them so they can experience the high-quality beef in the comfort of their own home. Second, considering that in addition to being a hub of the beef industry, Omaha is also home to the College World Series, which means lots of tourists every year descend on Nebraska’s largest city in hopes of seeing their team capture a national title. Of course, that equation can only have one result: legendary steakhouse.
This is one area where the Gateway to the West certainly delivers. Located in the western part of Omaha on 73rd Street, The Drover can be a bit difficult to actually find and enter, but doing so is worth the challenge, and most Omaha residents seem to agree, considering that it’s been open for four decades now. First, there’s actually finding The Drover, which can be a bit tricky because it’s not on a major road. Instead, it’s on a parallel street to 72nd Street, and in order to find it, you’ll have to turn onto Cedar Street and let that become 73rd Street. Once you’ve gotten to that point, it’s easy to follow the giant sign, but your task isn’t quite over once you’ve found the place.
That’s because unlike most places, there is no specific entry point at The Drover. When you walk in, don’t expect a greeter at the door waiting for you to assign you to a table, because you’re not going to find one. Instead, the host will be walking around the restaurant, interacting with customers and keeping track of the tables throughout each specific part of the restaurant with a pad and paper. It’s actually kind of cool that The Drover does it this way, because it means that the host is a part of the operation, rather than being totally separated from the rest of the staff.
The only separation you’ll find at The Drover is between dining rooms. Much like Bern’s, The Drover creates different segments inside its restaurant rather than throwing all of its customers in one main area. Unlike Bern’s, however, the noise isn’t there. The dining segments are actually smaller at The Drover than they are at Bern’s, but the noise doesn’t bounce around at all. I don’t know if it’s because the building is designed to suffocate the noise or because The Drover does a better job of segmentation, but whatever it is, the atmosphere is perfect here. Low lights and a lack of bouncing noise means you can enjoy your meal without disturbing the people next to you, regardless of party size.
Once your party’s seated, that’s when The Drover’s experience begins. It starts from the moment the server introduces the menu, because The Drover’s servers go out of their way to make customers feel like they’re in on a secret when they’re highlighting their specials. Specifically, they’re talking about The Drover’s secret-but-not-secret bacon-wrapped shrimp. The bacon-wrapped shrimp are The Drover’s most popular appetizer, but as the servers are quick to point out, it’s not on the menu, even though it’s offered every night.
There’s a reason for that, and it’s not just to be faux-secretive. The shrimp aren’t on the menu because The Drover only makes so many of them every day, and once they’re gone for the day, there won’t be any more until the next day. That’s because the shrimp used at The Drover don’t have a long shelf life, so the restaurant only wants to make as many as they can actually sell in a given day. That’s a very high commitment to quality, and even without knowing at the time just how high that commitment is, Amy and I decided that these were definitely worth experiencing for ourselves.
It’s a good thing that The Drover isn’t keeping these a secret, because these things are too good to keep hidden. The shrimp are served with a citrus-horseradish sauce and a side of sauteed mushrooms, and they’re outstanding together or individually. The bacon is crisp and works very well with the shrimp, being wrapped so perfectly that there’s no part where the shrimp isn’t covered before you bite into it. The sauce adds a new element of creamy flavor and the mushrooms are simply amazing. They’re the small caps of mushrooms that you’d expect to find in a quality steakhouse, and the taste is fantastic. I’m not the kind of person who pays extra for mushrooms on my steak (even though I love mushrooms), but I have to say that these mushrooms would be worth the extra cost. They seem like they’d taste fantastic paired with beef, and they were definitely fantastic paired with shrimp and bacon.
Up next is The Drover’s salad, and this is about as strong a salad as you’re going to find in a steakhouse, because you are in control of the salad here. All Drover entrees come with one trip to the salad bar, where you’re given a chilled plate and the ability to create your own salad, with some very fresh vegetables at your disposal. Lettuce, cherry tomatoes, black olives, mushrooms, egg, cucumber, green pepper, Parmesan cheese, croutons and ranch dressing were my selections, and the result was one fresh and delicious salad. The Drover offers just the salad bar for those who don’t want a full meal, and at $8, it actually isn’t that bad of a price with how fresh everything is.
As we were enjoying our night, Amy opted for a glass of white wine to go with our shrimp, salad and bread, which brought in…another Drover employee, making our third one that we’d had come to our table after the host and our main server. This is where I’ll pause to discuss The Drover’s unique, efficient serving system. Along with your main server, The Drover has one employee dedicated only to drinks, going around to all the tables in case anyone wants something other than water. I’d never seen this before, but it makes a lot of sense, because by taking the drinks away from the main server, it allows him to focus completely on the food. But The Drover’s system doesn’t stop there. Another employee is dedicated to clearing the tables, and yet another handles your bill when it’s time to call it a night. Yes, you’ll interact with a staff of five by the time you’re done, but the result is faster and focused service, because each member of the team plays their part and handles their responsibility. This is true teamwork at its finest, and the result is that after you place your order, you might not even notice your server again for the rest of the night because he or she will be catering to your needs without you even having to ask. Pretty awesome.
But the main reason to visit The Drover isn’t the service, the shrimp or the salad. It’s the thing that Omaha has made famous, the steak. Specifically, it’s the whiskey-soaked steak. Prior to going on the grill, each steak can be soaked for 15 minutes in a special whiskey marinade. I’ve had a drunken steak before, but this goes to a new level by dousing the steak before it hits the grill, allowing it to really soak into the steak and really get the flavors acquainted with the meat. Though I’ve never tasted alcohol of any kind, I knew that a drunk steak in Omaha was something I had to experience and opted for the whiskey-soaked top sirloin.
This thing is incredible. Not only do the flavors of the whiskey work their way into the steak, but the added liquid makes the steak extra tender and extra juicy, to the point where your plate might end up covered in liquid. The only place I’ve ever had a steak as good as this one is Bern’s, and that’s really saying something. The flavor is spread perfectly throughout the steak, creating an outstanding taste from first bite to last. The steak is actually so juicy and flavorful that there is no sauce whatsoever needed. Its own juices are flavor enough.
Even Amy was willing to try this one…and didn’t hate it, which is a huge step for her given her hatred of all things beef. Throw in a large baked potato with butter, sour cream, cheese, bacon and chives, and you’ve got one heck of an experience. It’s been a while since I’ve had anything even close to this good with an atmosphere this incredible. Every bit was simply outstanding.
Amy might not have hated the drunken sirloin, but that didn’t mean she was going to actually order one as her meal. Instead, she opted for The Drover’s broiled salmon, which comes complete with the baked potato and tartar sauce. Omaha isn’t known for fish, and Amy had never seen an order of salmon come out with tartar sauce before, but this one worked perfectly. The salmon is so tender and seems to just melt in your mouth, always a good sign of something that’s perfectly cooked. I tried a bit of this and absolutely loved it, and Amy said it worked very well with her wine, enjoying every bite of her meal.
When we first sat down at The Drover, I thought for a minute that Amy and I were about to experience the Nebraska version of Bern’s. But after getting the full experience, I can say that’s not the case. Everything about both places are first class, but where Bern’s is glamour and elegance, The Drover is a relaxed ambience while keeping it classy at the same time. To call The Drover a version of anything else would be improper and unfair. After 40 years serving some of the best steaks in the nation from a well-oiled machine that is its wait staff, it’s clear that The Drover is an absolute gem and a real legend in its own right. A visit to Omaha just isn’t complete without stepping inside the ivy-covered walls of The Drover.
Time to go: Dinner, which begins after 5 p.m. The Drover does serve lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. before taking the next three hours off, but you’re really here for a dinner you’ll really enjoy.
Wait during my visit: Minimal. We had a reservation, but they’re not necessarily required here. It’s probably better to go ahead and call ahead, though, just to be safe.
Location: The Drover is located at 2121 South 73rd Street in Omaha, Neb.
Cost: Good steakhouses are not cheap places, and The Drover is no exception. The cheapest steak on the menu checks in at $22, and the chicken and fish entrees are not much cheaper. Plus, the bacon-wrapped shrimp come in at $13, no small price for an appetizer. Given the high-quality of service here, if you don’t go for alcohol, you’re probably looking at about $75 for two people after tip. But as with most places like this, it’s very much worth the money.
Parking: When you get to The Drover, you might see a bunch of cars lined up outside the restaurant parked on 73rd Street. Don’t fall for it. The situation seems hairy because The Drover is right by a hospital and most of the parking spaces belong to the hospital, but the small lot next to The Drover is not connected to the hospital and is perfect for customers. Despite several cars on the street, we had our pick of several parking spaces. One word of warning, though: as the lots are not connected, do not turn into the second lot thinking you can park there during your meal. You can’t. That’s hospital property, and you do run the risk of being ticketed or towed in that lot. Just be sure that your car’s lot connects to The Drover.
Seating arrangement: The restaurant features tables of four and breaks itself into segments to give diners privacy and atmosphere throughout the evening.
Website: The Drover
Specialty items: Whiskey-soaked steak, bacon-wrapped shrimp